A night in a Tokyo capsule hotel

Capsule hotels began around 30 years ago in Japan, mostly as a way of providing salarymen (businessmen in offices) who had been out having a few drinks after work a way of spending the night in the city and going back to work in the morning. The trains stop fairly early (around midnight) and taxis are very expensive – even more so in the wee small hours – and in addition, men might be either too embarrassed or too drunk to go home. [Since then, there are also capsule hotels that include women and there are other categories of people who stay in them, including the homeless and even (in my case) tourists]

They are called ‘capsule’ hotels, as the ‘bedroom’ is well described as a self-contained capsule, usually stacked in twos in a dormitory arrangement, as the picture above shows. I stayed in an upmarket version, right next to Shinjuku Station, very conveniently. It was my first time in a capsule hotel – but I suspect won’t be my last!

On arrival, before entering the hotel, I had to remove my shoes and replace them with slippers. I was reassured to find some English:

Inside, I had also to remove my clothes and replace them with brown ‘pyjamas’ (which were all one ample size!) Everything was securely stored in lockers, and I was given my (‘deluxe’) capsule key. Staff spoke enough English to deal with a newcomer like me, and even had a sheet of instructions for first-timers, which was helpful.

After a day’s travel, I was looking forward to a bath, and chose this hotel in part because it offered good facilities. In case you are unfamiliar with them, Japanese baths are communal, and you need to thoroughly (very thoroughly, it seemed to me, as some of my

companions spent a long time doing that!) wash yourself before getting in the bath. (The bath is for soaking in after you are clean … it’s unthinkable and very bad manners to use a bath to wash in.) Of course, I didn’t take photos (for obvious reasons!), but the two photos here are from the hotel website, showing the cleaning bays and the hot spa bath. The cleaning bays I used didn’t have chairs, but had tiny stools, which were tricky to get down to, but I managed! Everything was provided in abundance: soaps, shampoo, conditioner, razors, etc.

The bath itself was wonderful … just what I needed after a day travelling! I was surprised to see some of my fellow bathers with a small towel on their head, until I realised that there was nowhere else to store it … for getting partly dry when you get out, and before using a real towel. there was also a sauna available.

Top capsule with bedding

View from my capsule

Then I headed off to my capsule. I chose a top bunk (with advice from a friend), which involved scaling the steps. My locker key allowed me to enter the dormitory, but the shutter in front cannot be locked (by law).

I had ample room and a comfortable bed in an air-conditioned space. I could reach the ceiling (but only just), and had a TV set (with Japanese stations), a choice of videos to watch (I didn’t) and even a little tablet for getting help and advice if needed. And of course wifi everywhere. I very rarely try to reach the ceiling at home, so it didn’t bother me that it was close!

There were lots of signs and advice in English (perhaps because I chose an upmarket version?), but I think the sign in the (communal) toilet telling me about the hook was a little excessive.

I had been warned that the hotel would be very noisy with people snoring, full of drunks, etc … none of which was the case. [Earplugs were supplied, but I didn’t use them. Maybe I was lucky or was already asleep before the noisy people arrived?] There were strict prohibitions about talking on phones, playing music, listening to TV (there were headphones instead), so the experience was very quiet and I had no trouble sleeping at all.

In the morning, thoroughly rested, I washed and shaved in the very nice facilities available, and then had another bath, which was just as pleasant as the first one, and availed myself of free ‘breakfast’, which consisted of some nice buns and lots of free drinks (teas, coffees, soft drinks, water, etc.) I could also have bought other things from several coin in the slot machines, but chose to not do so. [There was a beer slot machine I could have used the previous night too in our communal area.] Several of my fellow travellers were at breakfast at the same time, all dressed like monks, and nobody talking (maybe Trappist monks?). Everyone was using their device, of course … it is 2017, after all, and the wifi was very good. Several of them were reading the manga (Japanese comics), which were provided in abundance.

One of several slot machines; I chose to not have beer for breakfast

Lots of manga were available!

My fellow travellers (all in our pyjamas) at breakfast. It was very quiet!

The verdict? A terrific experience. The hotel was spotless throughout. The staff were very helpful. I had everything I needed for a comfortable night’s sleep. I was safe. It was much less expensive than a hotel. My belongings were safe, once I mastered the succession of keys and lockers etc. The hotel had lots of other nice features (e.g. a laundry) and is part of a chain. You can find out more here if you are interested.

Would I do it again? Certainly!

Author: barrykissane

I am a (mostly) retired Australian mathematics teacher, father, traveller. View all posts by barrykissane